Building a basic climbing wall is really quiet simple, The main tools you will need, are a drill a 12mm drill bit, a club hammer, and a saw.
The email at the end is out of date, best to email me at: peter@dontworkclimb.co.uk
How To Build Your Own Climbing Wall
There comes a point in your climbing career, where you just can’t make it out to the hard stuff frequently enough, be it work or circumstance, you end up having to do the odd indoor training session.
Now orthough now there is an abundance of good indoor walls throughout the country, sometimes, you just can’t find a wall that is leanient enough to let you rally hone your skills, health and safety starts being an issue, and they Inflated £5-£12 a session very quickly adds up when heading to the wall 3-4 times a week.
I was faced with this situation 12 years ago, and my solution, was to build my own indoor wall in my garage. The wall was great, I could train any spare 20 minutes I had, and I got to play around with some of the more technical skills, most indoor walls just wont allow you to practice, like prusiking.
I have collected together my years of experimenting, building and developing climbing walls to try and give you a rough guide. I am also going to be uploading my old first attempts at flash videos (scuse the quality, but it would be a shame not to show them (these were done before the likes of youtube))
Part 1 – The basics of building a climbing wall
Part 2 – Free standing Climbing Wall
Part 3 – Overhang Climbing Wall
Part 4 – The Adjustable overhang Climbing Wall
Part 5 – Make your own climbing holds
Part 6 – Route Setting
Part 7 – Shreddies
I will adding to this series over the next few weeks.
Making your own mind up
The key element to using and interpreting weather forecasts is developing self-reliance and doubt. Start thinking for yourself: Winter climbing (in particular) has seen a surge in popularity and information but this comes with a price. Homework still has to be done, mistakes will be made which form the basis of “experience” but let’s hope they’re not really bad ones.
This is a few thoughts about the proliferation of guiding blogs covering conditions development (including possibly the author of this one if his future goes the way he plans!). These can really help provide information about the actually conditions on the hill but again, take them with an informed mind.
Alasdair Gordon
The Front point is a great centralised website (in addition to the MWIS conditions page) and is good for the non-Scottish sites and also applying this information to rock climbing. I’ve taken a heavy winter bias in these articles but it is just as useful for working out mountain and coastal conditions for cragging.
I am not having a crack at guides for informing us of what they’ve been up to. Far from it, it’s great information. However, I think it’s pretty important that people don’t forget to make their own minds up. It is becoming a more common phenomenon that folk are being attracted to honey pot routes that get an overwhelming amount of traffic when other areas and routes are neglected. I’m not sure whether I should be complaining about this as personally I love climbing on a cliff with no other bugger there. I still feel a bit narked though that there are swarms of folk wanting the same small list of routes and I’m sure I’m being deeply hypocritical on this matter as it is part of human nature to compare with others. It feels a bit like the commodification of climbing though and a bit more exploration and taking a punt on routes that are off the beaten track can provide some deeply memorable experiences and a feeling of having snatched it out of the bag.
[Reaching for my pipe and slippers, stroking sideburns]
So that’s about me and I hope you’ve got something out of this. The amount of information available to climbers has increased but that doesn’t mean that the skills of using and appreciating the forecasts have lessened. If you want to push it or you want to just get more satisfaction from doing a better job, a little bit of knowledge goes a very long way. Enjoy.
The importance of Synoptic Charts
Synoptic charts… Do you really need to know about these? Yes, you do (if you don’t already).This is pretty basic stuff at first, apologies if it’s a bit obvious.
The principles are pretty simple (GCSE Geography gives the basics) and a quick overview can be found on the BBC Sailing website plus David Pedgeley’s Mountain Weather. Isobars indicate areas of equivalent atmospheric pressure. Low pressure (generally below 1012mb at sea level) indicates air warming, rising and expanding. The wind in these cyclonic systems is conversely anti-clockwise. High pressure (generally above 1012mb at sea level) indicates air from the upper atmosphere cooling, sinking and compressing with clockwise wind. Low pressure systems do not displace high pressure systems as air flows from areas high to low pressure. This is wind (stop sniggering) and the strength of this is proportionate to the gradient in pressure difference. So when isobars are close together, the gradient of pressure difference is high between areas and the air moves quickly from the high to the low pressure area.
The dominant track of low pressure systems is from the west, across the Atlantic and over Britain and Scandinavia (via the position of the jet-stream). The position of high pressure (anticyclonic systems) at different times of year influences the track of the low pressure (cyclonic) systems. Of particular interest recently has been the dominance of a High pressure system over Scandinavia which has brought cold and snowy weather to much of the UK. A very interesting article on the Arctic Oscillation attributed to this particular pattern can be found here.
The other key information relates to the fronts (boundaries) between relatively warm and cool air masses that occur with low pressure systems. Oh, to have a Geography teacher here right now – never mind: take a look at the following. Generally fronts are accompanied by precipitation (rain or snow). Warm fronts tend to be preceded by wispy cirrus clouds and a gradually descending cloud base as the front approaches. Cold fronts tend to be shorter and sharper with heavier rainfall. Occluded fronts are interesting with a “pocket” of cold air passing above warmer air and may lead to sleet, hail and thundery conditions.
This leaves a couple of issues. Firstly, take a look at the direction of winds – cue the sight of me rotating my digits round the high and low pressure systems on a computer screen. This will influence the temperatures in the UK. For winter climbing we are most interested in Polar Maritime (NW & N) and Polar Continental (NE & E) winds as these are cool air directions. Polar Maritime airflow being moisture laden cool winds (i.e. heavy snow). Polar Continental airflow brings very cold weather and often snow in the Cairngorms and if particular cold, sometimes good conditions in the North West of Scotland. It is worth noting the current air temperatures whenever precipitation is likely to see whether showers will cool as they make landfall. This raises my second point, the half height of the atmosphere. There used to be a webpage on this (that I can’t find any more) but the gist is that the 528 atmospheric contour (i.e. 5280m – shown by a dotted line on the MWIS synoptic charts) suggests the proximity of the cooler upper atmospheric air mass and thus the increased likelihood of snowfall.
This is not to decry the warmer wind directions. At the coolest times of year (January/February/March) westerlies bring thaw-freeze cycles crucial for névé development and moisture for building ice and hoar. It is also crucial to know the wind direction for predicting the avalanche forecast/conditions and which slopes will be loaded by windblown snow and slab development (see later section). Furthermore, direction of cornice development is predicted by wind direction.
Finally an interesting pattern is worth observing. After a period of cooling in a high pressure (anticyclone) system in winter, cool air sinking may lead to fog and a temperature inversion. These are well worth looking out for as many a magic day on the tops has been had wandering above the clouds although they make for poor winter climbing conditions.
Fort William Mountain Festival
This week ‘The Outdoor Capital of the UK’ has announced details of this years Fort William Mountain Festival. Each year this festival has attracted more attention and participation. This year it looks like it is going to be no different.
Andy Kirkpatrick is probably the best known speaker at the Festival. He is going to be giving a talk titled ‘victory over reason’ covering his adventures over the past year. If you haven’t seen Andy speak then you need to, he is hilarious. Though, if you do, make sure you read Psychovertical first.
Other speakers include Paul Diffley, an adventure film maker, Dave Macloed and Andy Turner. These last two will be giving a talk on Jimmy Marshall. As you probably all know, Jimmy Marshall, with Robin Smith, made first ascents of 6 **** routes on the Ben on consecutive days. This was in 1960, exactly 50 years ago. Dave and Andy will attempt to repeat this feat and recount the adventure in this talk. The Festival will also have loads of unknown adventure films and highlights from other mountain festivals across the world.
The best thing about the Fort William festival is its location and timing. Fort William is probably the best place you could be in early February. With the early season snowfall that we have had this year the Ben should, hopefully, be in really good condition. Unlike festivals like Kendal (which is usually in a rainy Lake District mid-November), at the Fort William festival you can climb all day and then relax with a lecture or film in the evening. If you can, it is definitely worth planning a trip for.
Details:
11th – 15th February 2010
(T) 01397 700 001
(E) info@mountainfestival.co.uk
(W) http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/
Tickets:
(T) 01397 700 707
Longest Waterfall Climb In Austria
It is a little late, but at the start of December Albert Leichtfried and his climbing partner Benedikt Purner made the first Ascent of the longest waterfall in Austria. BD, Albert’s main sponsors, have only just reported the ascent.
Moonwalk (WI 6 M7) is a 1000m route, 900m of which is a single continuous runnel of water ice. The route is in the Alterer Valley and the pair had been waiting a year for it to come in.
Pete and I both have fond memories of Albert guiding us up the south face of the Dent Du Geant about 7 years ago. Good to see him leading the way.
Ski Mountaineering Equipment: An Overview
When you are on the piste the focus is always on getting the most from your downhill runs. Ski mountaineering, in comparison, is all about using skis to travel efficiently in the mountains. This means that the gear you use is going to be very different to what you might use on the piste.
The obvious difference between ski mountaineering gear and downhill kit is that it will need to be used for both ascent and descent. Generally, this means that the gear will be much lighter and more flexible. In this article I will go through the main pieces of kit that you are going to need for ski mountaineering and point out the things you should look out for when buying any of it.
Skis
What skis you buy will obviously depend hugely on what type of skiing you are going to be doing. You will need a completely different ski for long alpine tours than if you are accessing long powder runs in Chamonix.
When making the decision you need to consider how much time you will spend going uphill relative to the amount you will be skiing downhill. If you are going to be climbing with skins a lot of the time, then having wide powder skis or carving skis will make things very difficult. Equally, if you are only going to be climbing from the top lift station over the nearest ridge before dropping into something steep and deep, then having lightweight, short and skinny skis will make it pretty miserable.
If you are going to be doing a lot of climbing for a number of days then go for something light. If you are going to be using the skis to access powder then go for something a little wider and heavier. There isn’t one ‘perfect ski’ for ski mountaineering. Whatever you buy you will have to trade off some of your downhill enjoyment to avoid passing out on the ascent. How much is up to you.
Bindings
One of Diamir's more popular bindings
Bindings are a little easier to choose. You only really have 1 choice to make: ‘do I want to use the skis to access climbs?’ I use the Silvretta 500 bindings which have a bar like the one on the front of your crampons. This means that I can use the skis whilst wearing my climbing boots and easily switch between skis and crampons. If you are ski mountaineering in Scotland I would really recommend this system. It is also really good if you are going to be using skis to access an ice route in the Alps.
Obviously skiing downhill in more flexible climbing boots is going to be different to skiing in plastic downhill boots. They do offer enough support to allow you to ski most things. It does take a little bit of getting used to though.
If you want a binding which you will only be using with ski boots then there are some very good options. Fritschi and Diamir touring bindings are the most popular. They are very easy to use, don’t ice up and are very strong when descending. The only slight negative is the weight, but to most this will not make a huge difference. At the moment the most popular binding is the Fritschi ‘Experience’.
Boots
Walking in normal ski boots is a nightmare. They are too stiff and heavy for anything but the short walk from the cable car to the snow. Ski touring boots need to be more comfortable, flexible and far, far lighter.
Like climbing boots, there is no point me recommending a particular boot as everyone’s feet are different. The most important factor is whether or not a boot fits you and feels comfortable. The best way to choose is to go and try them on. The best place to do this in the UK is probably Cairngorm Mountain Sports in either Aviemore or Braemar. When you are buying kit like this, having someone who knows what they are talking about is priceless.
Ski Poles
Poles are pretty basic pieces of kit. There are however some important things to consider when using them for ski mountaineering.
It is definitely worth getting some poles that are telescopic. This means that you can pack them away in your sack if the conditions dictate that you need crampons and an axe, or, if you are climbing.
Most of us already have telescopic poles for walking. The problem is that the force you exert on them whilst skiing is far more than when you are walking. If the poles aren’t up to scratch then when you are skinning up-hill, they are very likely to collapse. The best poles I have found are those made by Black Diamond. Their mechanism for extending and fixing the poles is really easy to use, even with gloves, and is very strong.
Skins
You can buy many different types of skin. The best are usually composites of man made and natural fibres. They stick to your skis with specialist glue and should be waxed regularly to keep them smooth for climbing. Every ski is a slightly different shape so you either need to shape them yourself or get someone else to do it. You need to think about how you are going to transport the skins. If the glued edges come into contact with each other then they are a nightmare to separate. You only have to have this happen to you once in a snowstorm to ensure you never let it happen again. The best way to avoid it is to have some sort of man made material to stick the skins to whilst you aren’t using them.
Avalanche Kit
Obviously when you are skiing in off-piste terrain you should carry, and know how to use, all the relevant avalanche kit. You, and everyone you are skiing with, should each carry a transceiver, shovel and probe.
With a transceiver the most important thing is that you know how to use it. If you can, try and use as many different types so that you know which one you get on with best. Nothing else matters aside from how fast you can find a buried casualty. Go for the simplest and easiest you can find.
There are loads of shovels on the market with lots of different features. Again, the most important factor the speed which you can uncover a buried casualty. When snow avalanches it sets like concrete around a casualty. A plastic or composite blade simply won’t do the job. You should go for metal all the way. Aside from that you just need to choose the handle that works for you and that can take repeated abuse.
Remember, ski mountaineering is about using a different set of tools to move effectively and safely in the mountains. To do it well you need to have a load of other mountaineering skills. The same can be said of the gear you need.
I’ve focused on the obvious pieces of kit that are unique to ski mountaineering. To do it safely you also need all the other kit which you would usually take on a winter mountain day. As always with a winter day, there is a fine line between taking too much and too little. Even with the addition of the ski mountaineering kit you shouldn’t really need more that a 35 kg sack.
Ski mountaineering pro Nick DeVore signs with Marmot
Marmot have just taken on 24 year old Nick Devore as the most recent edition to marmots global race team. This marks a shift in marmots approach to ski touring and ski mountaineering. We wait we baited breath to see how this shake up effects our binding and ski equipment.
To read more click here
New iso standard for ski touring
How will This new standard in ski touring equipment effect you? Well in short it should protect you from sub standard equipment, and ensure equipment is only designated as suitable for ski touring it meets the requirments, though it does only specifically effect how ski boots of size 15(foot lentgh) or above, and how they interface with the bindings.
To read more go here:
safer ski-touring with new iso 9523:2008 standsrd
Jump Start Your Rock Climbing Season with a Spring Trip
I know it isn’t the time of the place to be talking about rock climbing. Most of you are probably just getting used to hitting ice with sharp things. Don’t worry, I’m the same. If fact, I was the same when last year one of my rock climbing friends suggested a trip to Fontainebleau in April.
My initial reaction was, ‘why?’. April, especially the front end, can be prime Ben Nevis winter climbing season. I did eventually agree to it and we booked our flights. Now, my intention was not for this article to sing the praises of Fontainebleau, though it is amazing. What I want to emphasise are the huge benefits to your climbing that taking a trip at this time of year can have.
We went to Font for 8 days and had 7 days climbing. In that time I climbed more dry rock than I think I had in all my climbing life before that point. I know it is impossible to put a numeric marker for improvement, but my ‘comfortable on-sight’ trad grade when I returned to the UK had jumped by at least 2 technical grades.
This improvement was the same for pretty much all of us. In April, what I consider to be the start of the rock climbing season, this was amazing. I had the whole summer to go and already I was climbing harder than I had been at the end of the last!
The improvements were down to lots of factors working together. The most obvious factor was the strength and fitness that a climbing trip gives you. For 7 days we were climbing hard for 5 hours and eating not much more than bread and cheese. We were strong and thin.
Though strength is obviously a huge factor, especially as you get into the harder grades, the biggest improvement, for me, came from the mental advantage. After climbing for 7 days, climbing literally thousands of different cruxes, moves that before the trip would have been intimidating made a lot more sense. When you focus solely on a single activity for that length of time I find that your brain becomes far better attuned and the improvements to your technique quickly multiply.
I know it feels un-natural to be thinking about warm rock at this time of year. It is however, well worth considering if you want a kick start to next season. As much as anything it is brilliant fun, actually pretty cheap, and a massive help in switching your brain from winter to summer.
